setting up yongnuo 622n for nikon supersync

Setting up yongnuo 622n for nikon supersync manual#
Setting up yongnuo 622n for nikon supersync plus#
Setting up yongnuo 622n for nikon supersync windows#

To increase power by one stop, hold the plus (+) button down and let go when the correct LED is illuminated.Then, hold down the + or – button on the transmitter so that it starts cycling through C1, C2, C3, A, B, C… First, hold the shutter button halfway down to enter transmitting mode. If not, you can increase/decrease the output of each group independently of one another.Are all of the groups firing at the right brightness? If so, great. Hold the shutter button halfway down to send signals through to the receivers, then press it all the way to take a picture.See the instruction booklet for more information.)

Setting up yongnuo 622n for nikon supersync manual#

(Yongnuo normalises the manual power levels on its own scale, so these don’t necessarily correspond to the 1/1, 1/2, 1/4 etc settings found on the flash’s own control panel. You can switch between them by holding down the GP/MODE button on the transmitter.

On the transmitter, decide whether you want to use your flashes in i-TTL or manual mode.

Make sure they are on the same channel as the transmitter.

Set up your receivers in the desired groups.

It’s actually deceptively simple once you’ve got your head round it.

And the corresponding written instructions are in confusing Chinglish. Here we’ll be looking at remote control mode, which allows you to remotely adjust three groups of flashes without the need for a Commander unit.Ĭovered on page 10â€“11 of the user manual, Remote Control Mode seems bewildering at first because, unlike the Phottix Odin and Kody TTL, we have no LCD control panel to view and adjust settings.

The latter involves just setting parameters on the flash units themselves, so that you can mix together manual, TTL and stroboscopic flashes. There are three different operating configurations for the YN-622N system: master control mode (covered in our earlier article), remote control mode and mix control mode. Beyond that, you can try ganging together multiple speedlights, or use more flags and “negative fill” (black walls) in your studio to reduce the ambient light falling on your subject. Experimenting with different manual power levels could yield brighter results. On the left there is no flash and on the right is the same scene lit with a remote Nikon SB-800 bouncing light off the right-hand wall. However, at extremely high speeds, above 1/2000 second or so, the contribution from the Nikon SB-800 is reduced since the shutter simply isn’t open long enough to let all its light in â€” and this is more a limitation of the camera-flash combination than of the triggers. The Yongnuo YN-622N synchronises cleanly at all shutter speeds, as shown. Increasing the shutter speed reduces the amount of natural light in the exposure.

Setting up yongnuo 622n for nikon supersync windows#

Why might you need high-speed sync? In this demonstration, we wanted to shoot our 50mm f/1.8 lens wide-open for a narrow depth-of-field, but this means letting a lot of light into the camera and we weren’t able to black out the windows of our studio enough to eliminate the unwanted extra ambient light. We’ve also been getting to grips with Yongnuo’s so-called “remote control mode” â€” controlling your flash setup using just the YN-622N transmitter, as opposed to “master control mode” (see first review) where you have a Commander flash sitting on top of your transmitter and make the adjustments from there. In this article we’ll be looking at high-speed sync: the ability to use flashes with your camera at fast shutter speeds without banding in your photographs. Following on from our earlier overview of the Yongnuo YN-622N i-TTL flash triggers, we’re testing out a couple more features that these devices have to offer.